The Fresh Taste of Roussillon
Excerpt from an article published on JancisRobinson.com July 2023
Domaine Treloar, run by English Jonathan Hesford and New Zealander Rachel Treloar, is farmed regeneratively: without herbicides or broad-spectrum chemicals, minimal ploughing, minimal fungicides, natural fertilisers and native-species cover crops. Their 10 ha (25 acres) of vineyards, mostly old vines, are dry farmed. Grapes are hand-picked and winemaking is free of additives bar low-level sulphites at the end of fermentation. My visit to Treloar was at the end of the trip and our tasting was brutally curtailed to just three wines, zipped through very quickly, but Hesford (a seismologist and submarine-control-system designer in a previous life) is one of Roussillon’s finest, most thoughtful, intelligent, ever-questioning winemakers and his VVGV wines always over-deliver in terms of unmitigated deliciousness and understated elegance.
Treloar, Le Rescapé Carignan 2019 IGP Côtes Catalanes Cherry and stone. So damn juicy. Pomegranates and transparency. Shining with light and vivid energy. Vivacious energy and so delicious. (TC) 17.5
Treloar, Le Ciel Vide 2019 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Pure expression of fruit, tugged in by tannins just shy of stocky but with lovely polish. Herbs. Something a little almondy. But above all, juicy, juicy, juicy. Quaffability off the scale: 11 out of 10! (TC) 17
Treloar, Tahi 2018 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre. All vinified in barrels especially designed for them and this cuvée made from selected barrels. The 2018 was just bottled when I tasted it in March 2023, but they probably won’t sell it for another three years. Masses of structure, fine tannins beautifully meshed. The fruit is stony and streaked with coal dust and there is an embroidery of cedar and fragrant herbs. Pomegranate. Himalayan pink salt. The wine finishes with a gentle growl, almost purring, tiger-like. This will be worth waiting for. (TC) Drink 2025 – 2035 17.5